Under $5000

Inside A Novice Watch-Buyer’s Mind

I have always loved watches. From the time I was young, I loved the different styles and colors, chronographs vs. dress; hell, I even loved pocket watches. But, it wasn’t until recently that I started to appreciate the engineering that goes into making a quality watch. 

Luckily, I get to hang out with the creator of spazz.com on a regular basis, so I get schooled on the in”s-and-out’s of a variety of different watches. There is so much to learn and understand, and I am taking it all in little by little. 

So, I decided to write this article to help others like me - the guys who love quality watches but don’t have the money to buy the best of the best. The good news is that you don’t always have to buy the best; just buy the best in the range that you can afford. 

Inside A Novice Watch-Buyer’s Mind

Bang-For-Your-Buck: Rolex Explorer 14270

New watch prices have dramatically increased over the years. Even when factoring for inflation, watches cost more today than any other time in history. This is why when we come across a watch that is a good deal, we like to mention it asap!

Today’s bang-for-your-buck is the Rolex Explorer ref.14270 (or even the 114270, which had minor changes: a slightly upgraded caliber 3130, the addition of solid end links, and the subtraction of lug holes), which can be bought on the pre-owned market for just over $3,000 to about $3,500. An excellent value, especially when you consider that a brand new Explorer will run you close to $7,000.

Bang-For-Your-Buck: Rolex Explorer 14270

Dead Brand Chronographs

An interesting subject in collecting vintage watches for me has always been those so called "dead" watch brands that made chronographs pre-1970's.

Once the quartz crisis took hold, only a few managed to actually survive, and the majority of those were bought by the Swatch Group or other large conglomerates. 

The rest, all gone (unless their names alone have been revived for some marketing reason).

Names like Nicolet, Gigadnet, Wakmann, Cyma, Gallet, Zodiac, etc. There were literally hundreds of these brand names that popup up pre-1970s. Some were owned by bigger brands, for example, Wakmann, which belongs to Breitling. This brand was used to assemble watches in the USA to avoid certain taxes when the watches entered assembled.

Dead Brand Chronographs

What to buy under $5000

Let me try to explain the whole "going over $5k for anything good" position, and then offer some suggestions.

The thing about the watch industry today, is that if you broadly look over the watches in the up-to-$5000 range, the overwhelming majority are almost like cookie cutter watches. 

That is to say, they have the same sugar daddy (Swatch or Richemont), all use generic ETA or Sellita movements, not their own in-house movements as many of these brands used to, and are focusing more on trends than actual watchmaking, again like many of these brands used to.

As a result, people like me will always recommend go vintage.

What to buy under $5000