I have always loved watches. From the time I was young, I loved the different styles and colors, chronographs vs. dress; hell, I even loved pocket watches. But, it wasn’t until recently that I started to appreciate the engineering that goes into making a quality watch. 

Luckily, I get to hang out with the creator of spazz.com on a regular basis, so I get schooled on the in”s-and-out’s of a variety of different watches. There is so much to learn and understand, and I am taking it all in little by little. 

So, I decided to write this article to help others like me - the guys who love quality watches but don’t have the money to buy the best of the best. The good news is that you don’t always have to buy the best; just buy the best in the range that you can afford. 

Yesterday, April 26, 2017, the Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) released a white paper on “Fine Watchmaking”. In short, the white paper was created to promote what they’re calling “Fine Watchmaking”, and they defined 4 market segments and 7 areas of expertise by which 46 “independent international experts” used to judge brands against. These people make up what they’re calling the “Cultural Council”. For a watch to be qualified it must score at least 60% where 65% of the score is objective and 35% is subjective.

In total, 86 brands were judged, 68 made the cut, and only 28 were so good they became partners.

Now that SIHH 2017 has come and gone, lets take a look at some of our favorite new watches. But first, what is SIHH?

SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) is one of the two big watch shows in Switzerland that happens every year (Baselworld is the other). SIHH began in the early 90’s with it’s first show in 1992 when 5 brands left Baselworld to set it up: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Piaget, Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth. Today the show has grown to 30 exhibitors. As such, the quality of the watches revealed has also grown immensely, which is never a bad thing.

Every year we have our "new year's resolutions", but given the holiday season has just ended, which is always filled with the standard commercialism and retail therapy, I thought it might be worthwhile to give my perspective on the subject. Specifically when we refer to a certain type of spending as "materialism" - this ties in nicely with the watch world, since 2016 was officially the worst year on record since the early 80's!

First, what is materialism?

It has now become common knowledge that this past year has been one of the worst on record for the watch industry. Data released by Bloomberg and the FHS (Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH) show that sales have dropped over 45% between 2015 and 2016, and the level of Switzerland’s watch exports dropped 11 percent during the first 10 months of the year.

"Hi,

I only intended to buy one quality mechanical watch, so after a lot of research I bought an Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. Unfortunately I'm now hooked on watches, but I don't want to build a large collection of watches which I cannot really afford. As I really like chronographs, I would like to eventually buy a single example of a flyback, split-second, and foudroyante chronograph to complement my "basic" Speedmaster. What watches should I consider buying in each of these categories, that would be worth owning, but won't break the bank?

Robert"

Hi Robert,

And welcome to the club (there is no cure!)

A couple years ago I wrote that IWC was back! That was when they introduced their revamped Portuguese collection, even renaming it to Portugieser. It included a slew of brand new in-house movements, and the revamping of other pre-existing movements. To refresh our memories, this is the list of what became the latest Portugieser collection:

After the 2016 Presidential Election in the United States, it is widely expected that there will be some economic uncertainty moving forward (at a minimum). This would affect the US, and by extension the world. Without going into a political rant, the reason for this is because proposed policies from the campaign trail point to an increase in interest rates, which basically means cost of living for the majority of people will go up. If this happens, luxuries are the first to get axed. Back in 2008 when the most recent financial crisis hit, the market was flooded with luxury cars, boats, and jewelry. It was only once the recovery really started to take hold the past couple years did we see, for example, an increase in watch prices to the point where records are being set all over the world.

A little while ago I put together 'The Ultimate Watch Collection'. A collection where money is no object.

But, what if money is an object?

In other words, if we wanted to build a watch collection of 'attainable' watches, where attainable isn't necessarily cheap, but that a person making an average salary could, with time, save up to buy at least a couple, what would that look like?

Well, I'm about to tell you (in no particular order), and yes there are watches in this list that overlap with the "ultimate watch collection", and thats because money isn't everything.

I am literally beside myself when I browse around online, or happen to stumble upon conversations regarding watches by so called “experts”. The amount of junk thats out there dressed up as fact, when in reality is nothing more than some self-perpetuation prophecy designed to mold and shape public opinion in a particular direction is sickening.

It’s as if over time everything has been turned on its head. What used to be considered important is now less so and vice versa. A whole new formula has been created and passed around, which is then used by those receiving this “advice” against their own interests.

At Spazz.com we call those responsible Horological Douchebags (“HDs”). They don’t want you to think for yourself using logic, but rather they want you to trust them blindly. They’ve “been there”, so they "know of the mistakes" they don’t want you to make (wink wink).

But you still have a brain, don’t you?

Much has been made of the Quartz Crisis, and the implication that Quartz watches are not as good as mechanical ones. 

The Quartz Crisis was devastating to the watch industry to be sure, and I do agree that mechanical watches are much better than Quartz, but as is always the case, there are exceptions to the rule, perspective matters, and its always a good idea to at least try to have some knowledge to back up your claims.

So, what is Quartz?

A watch's primary function is to tell us what time it is. This is why telling the time is not considered a "complication".

But anything beyond that is.

And some complications are much more difficult to make than others. And combining more than one of these complications into one watch is absolutely spectacular, hence, it's own category: Grand Complications (minimum 3 complications to qualify).

But even doing one of these things well is a challenge, and making them all, even in individual watches make for quite the repertoire.

The IWC Portuguese is a watch icon.

And has been, since it's inception.

But how did it come to be? Why the name 'Portuguese'?

As the story goes, a couple of Portuguese business men commission IWC for a wristwatch that had the "precision of a marine chronometer".

This was back in the 1930s, and by 1939 IWC launched the first ever Portuguese.

What makes this watch such an icon can easily be identified by the process IWC followed to get it made. And as you will see, the idea that 'form follows function' is at the core of this wonderful watch.

Today, a convenient summary!

I think the following summary, in chart form should be a lot of fun. And as you will see, it makes it real easy to visualize alternative combinations. I.e., if you prefer the Calatrava to the Reverso, cool. In your personal chart/list, you could just swap them, and it'd still make sense...

This is the category where only the best of the best can participate.

If you're a watch company and do not have a watch in this category, you are not a top-tier watch brand. Period.

You may make no-nonsense, reliable, tough, even beautiful looking watches. But to be even considered part of the truly top-tier, you must have a watch in this category.

Of course, what makes it so hard to compete in this category are the technical requirements in general. And this is why only the best of the best compete. It's the category, in other words, that really does separate the men from the boys.

I combined the categories of "Tool" and "Dive" watch, which are usually separate, because of the fact these are essentially obsolete categories in our modern world.

So much so, that I even contemplated referring to this as the "Vintage" watch category.

In other words, gone are the days when any given military or air force division, etc., would call a luxury watch brand to make them a watch, fine tuning the hands or the dial for their specific needs, which led to some iconic watches like the Submariner, Mark IX, W10, etc.

Today, there's only one choice for any non-civilian use and thats a G-Shock. There are some rare exceptions, but not really.

A G-shock will make any Submariner seem fragile, and is so cost effective they're almost disposable.

It's inconceivable to think that this category didn't even exist until the 1970s.

Up to that time, Stainless Steel was used in the typical "Tool" or "Dive" watches. Dress watches were also made in stainless steel, but then those would never have been considered "luxury" dress watches.

So, when Audemars Piguet decided to create a new watch, one that would deserve to be called an Audemars Piguet, one that would merge "Sport" and "Luxury", and in essence create a whole new category of watch, a Stainless Steel case must have been an obvious choice.

But, given the fact the future of the company (arguably) hung in the balance of this "new watch", it must have also been tense times at AP.

I have a huge pet peeve when it comes to the watch hobby/industry and its the word timepiece.

A watch is a watch, not a friggin' timepiece. If you insist on saying timepiece, then you need to know and accept you're an horological douchebag.

Remember, watches are first and foremost machines, tools, instruments, but they are not jewelry or art, therefore, they are not timepieces. Sure, watchmakers have taken their craft to levels that definitely rival great works of art, the same way a Ferrari does in the automotive industry. But just like a Ferrari is still a car not a travel-piece, a watch is still a watch. Not a timepiece.

Of all the categories, if I only had one great watch, it'd be in the Dress Watch category.

This is for a few reasons.

First, a dress watch today isn't just a dress watch. It can definitely cross over. As such, it can be quite practical for most people.

Second, it's the most likely of watches to transcend all generations (in my opinion). Dress watches are usually simpler, so their overall design tends to be the kind that will most likely still be relevant in the future.

If you've ever caught the bug to collect watches, or if you're a watch lover in general, the question of what would be the ultimate watch collection always comes up. And this is true even if you never actually end up owning that collection ($$$$).

And many blogs and publications have written about this subject. The truth is, it's fun!

For the most part, owning such a collection is just a dream. There aren't too many people (or their wives) who can justify more than a couple "great" watches let alone anything close to an 'ultimate watch collection'.

But again, it's fun to even discuss it.

And when considering the ultimate collection, how to determine the logic behind the collection, or the theme, can be just as difficult. I'd say there is never a shortage of collection themes.

COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) is the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, which certifies a wristwatch for accuracy and precision, but does so according to standards established up to 1973.

There are other institutes that provide the same function, but the most important detail as it pertains to truly understanding accuracy, is that all of the truly high-end manufacturers have abandoned these certifications because their own in-house standards far and away surpass the COSC standard (and the like).

This is important for the following reason: many companies -- Rolex in particular -- not only have not abandoned the COSC, but use the fact that others have as a way to market their movements as being "better than" the rest, when in fact the opposite is (closer to being) true.

The main issue, in general, when it comes to the watch industry today is that many brands that once were relevant, no longer are. And it's become increasingly difficult to decipher between the true horologically relevant watch brands and the pretenders.

Whats worse, many pretenders were once at the pinnacle of haute horology, so it can get tricky. 

So, here's a list of criteria that all truly high-end brand/watch will meet. If a brand or watch does not meet all of the criteria, regardless of how much it costs, I'm here to tell you to walk away. You have better options

In a discussion I was having over the weekend with some car aficionados, it was inevitable that the subject of watches came up. Along the way we started discussing the fun that can be had "collecting" and we also discussed the *possibility* that watches can be great investments. Just think back to last weekends fiasco held by Phillips Auction House.

And the main difference, it was ascertained, between then and now is the huge role the internet, and the various online watch expert blogs and sites play in all of this. Because the reality is, douchebags or not (they are), some in particular have done a brilliant job brainwashing the masses into thinking what they say actually makes sense.

Again, think back to last weeks auction and think about the hype thrown at the $5 million Patek and the $1.3 million Daytona just to name two.

It's been a long time since I felt that IWC was on target as far as makers of true worthwhile watches. I'd say it was roughly 2002 that things started to teeter. Right when they stopped making the classic dial on their Doppelchronograph and swapped it for the Spitfire variation. 

To me, it felt like around that time all they've done is rest on their laurels and prostitute themselves for the sake of making money.

That's not to say there haven't been some good work along the way. Just think of the movement inside their Scafusia. One of only a couple companies that even attempted to solve constant force.

But outside of that, their watches continued to grow in size, continued to look gimmicky, and continued to move farther and farther away from what once made them great.